A beginner in the Annapurna Circuit Trek: What I wish I knew.
I would like to share with you my personal experience & itinerary of the Annapurna Circuit Trek, together with tips and advice if you are considering going on this hike.
First of all, you might be wondering how did I even end up doing such a challenging trek without having previously been interested in trekking at all? Well, being honest, it was not planed, nor I had the right idea of what I was getting myself into. I arrived in Nepal to extend my Indian Visa. It was not remotely desired to go on a 10 days trek, it was rather an impulsive decision that should have been pre-meditated, knowing now that Annapurna is as well worlds deadliest mountain, that sees approximately 32 deaths per 100 successful summits. This calculation is not remotely exaggerated. During my trek I've heard of five different people who went missing on different days and circumstances.
But back then, when I decided to spend the last week of my journey in the mountains, I did not know any of this. I was with my two good travel friends, not really fascinated by Katmandú nor Pokhara, wondering if we should turn our way back to India or find an activity that called us. We remember the time we shared in Triund when we spent a couple of days around the fire, under the sky full of stars, and we thought it would be nice to have a revival of that. I personally had no idea we were talking about 5000 meters of altitude and 4 to 9 hours daily hike. My friends seem to underestimate it as well, since one even brought her guitar and came on flip flops.
We took a bus and then a jeep on a Sunday. I have never been in such a bouncy car. It was exhausting to sit there and crush our head and shoulders to the car roof and doors for like 5 hours. We had to go already quite high, skipping a big part of the trek, cause I was limited by time and needed to catch a flight on the next week.
We had our first night in a small shelter hosted by a family before making it to Manang, the acclimatation point for most hikers. In Manang there are bakeries, beautiful shelters and also an ATM. My friend Lucy got quite sick that day, headache, fever, and even vomiting. It was nothing but altitude sickness, another thing that we were underestimating. Altitude sickness can be quite serious and eventually cause death, therefore I advise you to research it if you are planning to go on a hike.
We soon enough understood that although the 3 of us were dreaming of an easy peasy shared time together, our journey wasn't going to be about that. One of us getting sick and myself needing to rush through the mountain in order to make it to catch a flight was not sounding like we could steak together for long. We embraced that inevitable truth of soon having to face separation.
The day after, noticing Lucy was feeling slightly better, we decided to go on our first walk to the closest refugee. It is called Khangsar. We did it slowly, since we liked to stop every now and then to catch up, take pictures or contemplate the beauty of the mountains (another non-advice thing to do, since it gets harder for your system to recover while having long stops). I noticed other people walking high speed with their guides, wearing proper shoes and walking sticks and I felt we were completely out of tune.
We spent the night in Khangsar and headed to Tilicho base camp the next morning. I wanted us to see the highest lake in the world (Tilicho) even when that meant taking a detour from the road and having to walk on my steps the day after. The walk to based camp took us seven ours since we were at out shanti, shanti mood.
Was there in Tilicho base camp when I understood that despite everybody's exhaustion, I had no time to take the hike that chilled any longer if I wanted to be in Pokhara on time and catch my flight to Delhi. I could not force the others to keep on with me, but I also could not keep on with them anylonger. Until then I was inseparable from my friends Lucy and Salome and I didn't even want to think about being away from them. However then I understood, that was one of these moments when life was pushing me to be independent.
So I woke up at 4.40, ate an Oreo and left walking in the night towards Tilicho Lake. I am used to moving from impulse and to think every challenge is manageable for me (is a kind of being in denial of my human condition that makes me resilient to pain and exhaustion but it does not always lead me well), but that was different. On my own, in the dark, on altitude walking upwards, when even breathing hurts, and you feel pressure on your lungs and stomach as if they would be squeezed out. I tried clinging to different people (for instance, trying to keep up with the army guys who were also on their way up searching for somebody who got lost 3 days ago) but still every second minute I needed to take a break and I soon lost from my view as well. I was only twenty minutes away from the camp when I sat on the floor and considered just quitting and going back to the refugee, maybe trying to get a horse. It was then when the help came from a trekking guide, whose client walked somehow far ahead of him. He asked me what was up with me and when I said I was just taking a break (that looked rather like I was giving up) he kindly invited me to join him on his walk. His pace was rather quick but somehow, I felt like I gained the strength to keep up with it. Soon enough we surpassed the army guys and my friends from the refugees who had come out earlier in the morning and were totally shocked to see me.
It is quite impressive, the energy that others can give you. This is something I've learned during this Annapurna trek. Regardless if the presence is physical or spiritual, in moments of such hustle are other people who can give us the strength to keep going. I have explored this in different ways that I'll give more details further on this note.
Last part of the trek to Tilicho Lake, when the floor was finally flat for a moment, the altitude was such that I could only walk with closed eyes so as not to get dizzy. I felt I would faint if I opened my eyes. Only looking inwards, witnessing my (lack) of breath, would help me to keep walking like a zombie. I was taken care of, so I kept on going. I was feeling the altitude and the exhaustion so deeply.
When we finally arrived at Tilicho I was so tired I did not care much about the lake. I did not care much about anything, I was rather calm and empty. Then I understood how little influence can external factors have on our own happiness. The idea that a beautiful sunset, landscape or piece of architecture could bring me joy and happiness completely vanished. Even when I feel constantly aroused by emotions and reactions I believe to be produced by external factors, then I understand that there is no lake, no mountain, no social club or no condition that can give me such a thing. Being rather indifferent to the breathtaking lake I climbed up to, because the senses and organs were too exhausted to even care, showed me how the internal state is always the one that's relevant. My feeling of peace and fulfillment came from within more than ever.
After that on hike, all the others I had to do became almost easy (I say almost because to be honest they still were incredibly hard). During this process, I was eager and curious to explore what physiological factors were the ones that helped me to keep pushing through exhaustion. And this is what I found out:
Supporting myself with others. Thinking about others inspires me and guides me. These others, “external” from me, would give me the strength to go on walking, and if the person was not there physically, I would just imagine their presence as if they would be waiting for me and calling me a couple of meters ahead. This person or deity would represent my inner strength and faith.
Chanting. Proving my faith while offering my efforts also played a role. I'd also keep on chanting mantras outloud or in my head during the trek.
Compassion. When I was exhausted, I thought about the suffering of other beings, like how much would the horse have suffered if he would have needed to carry me, and I imagined myself taking over its suffering to alleviate it with my effort. This would give me strength to go on.
Setting parallel goals. Connect the action of walking in such conditions to the benefit it would bring to my life. For example, knowing that for me, to keep on going in such conditions would build more stamina that would help me to dance for more hours. I connected the goal of trekking to my passion to dance, but others examples would be to be in general better shape (both mentally and physically).
Spirituality. I keep in mind I was taking a spiritual path. Hiking the Himalayas is almost like taking a dip in the Ganges, an opportunity to observe the world through a non-dual eye. I I took the opportunity to talk to the mountain, I asked her to help me cleanse my karma.
Taking one step at the time, one foot after the other feet. This helped me to stay present in any moment, cause once the mind starts wandering about past and future is no help. I was not thinking about the final destination but about each movement dragging me closer to it. Can be thought of as a walking meditation but with aching feet.
Using a walking stick. The moment that I was lent a walking stick it was magnificently helpful. The walking stick was to my walk like the breath is to meditation ; a great supporter where to fix my attention and give the weight of my body. I'd place the stick on the floor and think to drag my body closer to it.
Staying present and focused. Don't let my mind drag me anywhere else but here and now. I proved how important this is when I studied the state of my mind on my weakest day; it was rather agitated, thinking about the hike I had ahead the day after, thinking negatively about what was coming, seeing myself incapable to go on. These types of thoughts had made it terribly hard for me, my body, mind and being were not enjoying and felt generally weakened.
As last resource: I Imagined I was in bed sleeping and resting. This is tricky because it implies to dissociate yourself from your body and perhaps even ignore the signs of exhaustion. However, as a last resource, it has helped me. It dragged the attention out of my body and by pretending I was already there at the resting point, I alleviated some of the pain of the hiking.
The route that I have taken was
Day one: Chame (acclimatation day - by jeep)
Day two: Manang (acclimation day - by jeep)
Day three: Khangsar (Hike for 2 hours. Normally people go all the way to Tilicho base camp but we wanted to go slow for acclimatation, what I strongly suggest to do)
Day four: Tilicho Base camp (5 hours)
Day Five: Hike to Tilicho lake, back to the Base camp, afternoon hike to Shree Kharka where I spend the night (In total 9 hours)
Day six: Yak Kharka (3-4 hours)
Day seven: Thorong Phedi (3-4 hours)
Day Eight: Hike to Thorong la Pass (highest walkable pass in the world) , passing through Mukthinar, taking a bus to Tatopani where I spend the night (total nine hours without counting 3 hours bus)
Day nine: Bus Back to Pokhara.
General Advice:
Most important: Do not underestimate the mountain! People do get lost and never found. I was myself almost getting lost twice while trying to do the thing on my own. I heard of five different people getting lost in the course of just six days while I was hiking. Annapurna has a 30 percent mortality rate. No joke! And once you are lost you won't be properly searched with drones, helicopters or anything. They might send the army to search for you after three days you are gone and is going to be useless. Therefore, the most important advice is to get a guide ! For your own safety and also to guarantee a good experience. I would have definitely chosen to have a guide if I would have known what I had to face ahead of me. Why? They know themselves with the mountain and they can show you the best way to get though. They can advise you and help you pick food that will be helpful, help you if you need medicine, they are also insured in case you need a helicopter to go down the mountain or even if you get lost and need to be found. Also, they will adapt to your needs and rhythm so you don't need to rush yourself to keep up with a group or walk slower than you would like to. I have seen a lot of solo- travelers and also groups of travelers with their guides, and to see the relationship they develop is absolutely delightful. The cultural and personal exchange, how intimate and cared for the relationship is and how much support is given to the hiker. I strongly advise this option
Medical consultation. Is good to talk to doctors or local guides about medication that might be needed and how to recognize symptoms of altitude sickness and when it can be dangerous. It can get so bad that it is scary, but it is better to know than to suffer from it. I have seen a traveler with altitude sickness developing a lung infection and fighting with it on their own in the middle of nowhere. Trust me better to prevent than to cure.
Be well equipped; hiking shoes are important, otherwise you can get injured by twisting your ankle, sliding down, slipping. The roads might be wet, slippery, many things can go wrong and you don't want to be on flip flops or vans like me and my friends. Get clothes for both hot and cold. I had a scarf, hat, even gloves from the peak. While being on high altitude I'd sleep with my hat on cause it gets cold at night and is likely to get sick. Have a light hiking jacket. Bring an extra pair of socks and cozy clothes that should remind dry for when you reach a refugee or need to catch a bus.
Get enough cash money. I could only take money from Manang. Things will keep on getting expensive the higher you go and there is no card payment. Eventually you need to pay for a hot shower and even to charge your phone. You also can never know if for an emergency you will need to have extra cash. For instance it can be helpful or needed to take a horse. To go up to Tilicho Lake by horse they charge 10.000 nepalese and to make the cross you can expect to pay 100 Dollars.
Always wear sunscreen, even if you start hiking at night. My face got peeling off even while I was wearing 50 sunscreen.
Pick your season. Although no one would have recommended to do the hike at the end of May (because it is too close to monsoon season and it can be cloudy or insatiable weather) for me it was the best choice to do it while there were not so many travelers because I like my silence and my space.
Consider having a good amount of time to rest after the experience. You will need long night sleeps and processing emotions, thoughts and sensations that will most likely appear.
Overall, even when it was one of the mental and physical challenges I went through in my life, it was also one of the strongest and most revealing experiences to live surrounded by the quiet mountains and push through the stress. For me it is now certain that I need to repeat this sort of experience at least twice a year.